This must be one of the simplest videos I've done. I got this from eBay to look at the construction, and it's actually very neat. It's not just been bodged o... ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ix_slEKAtuw
As components get smaller and smaller I'm seeing an increase in a specific failure mode where equipment dies with a very high current draw. And it's all down to one non-semiconductor component.
This is the first task for my new Infiray thermal camera module. It performed flawlessly.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcdBjBltn9I
A collaboration with Julian Ilett to celebrate 100K subscribers on his channel. This is going to be a completely random piece of LED art that Julian will be giving as a prize. To Enter, all you have to do is go to Julian's part of the video and leave a comment using the keyword he gives in his video.
Here's the link to his part of the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3lTCs78d5MQ
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLssecO4VS4
Although very popular in Japan, I think these are probably made in China. But they seem quite well built and have features that make them an improvement over the common cheap time switches.
Once again I'd like to thanks Jerry and Rosie for sending this along with other things.
First good feature is that its based on a traditional rotating mechanism. That makes it easier to program and also gets rid of the most horrible feature of the digital ones.... Crashing. When switching loads like contactors or discharge lamps the cheaper digital time switches can sometimes be affected by the current transient and reset completely to zero, erasing all the programmed times in the process and leaving the load off.
The contacts seem quite chunky and decisive compared to some of the creepy little relays in some digital time switches.
The battery for keeping the unit running during loss of power is completely replaceable from the front of the unit by just plugging a new one in. Even the posh Sangamo type time switches lack an easy way to change the battery. The use of a simple green LED across the battery as a cheap zener-style shunt is quite nice. It means the voltage across the rails will be capped at about 2V if the battery is disconnected or fails high resistance when it dries out.
Apart from the MOV/VDR having no failure protection it seems quite a well designed unit.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NizwfGn6UGw
Working backstage on a big show usually involves turning up for work, testing the lighting system and placing out equipment like lights and effects equipment that can't normally be in public areas during the day. Then if all goes well we sit around and drink tea and repair equipment while the show runs, while being on standby to jump into action if anything major goes wrong during a show.
This particular day was annoyingly eventful due to two different faults on a single network which were shorting the same data line to ground intermittently in a manner that made finding the fault quite tricky. (Intermittent faults are always hard to find.) In this case we decided to add a data buffer mid-span and then divide the lighting on that stream into four sections, and quickly narrowed it down to two faulty sections that we could then narrow down further by monitoring the status lights on the data buffer while deliberately aggravating the problem.
A very strange fault scenario that was quite intriguing to pin down.
One fault was a haze machine with a fault in its CPU card's data section and the other fault was this light which had been badly terminated at some point.
When we had got the problem fixed we brought both pieces of faulty equipment up to our workshop and I diagnosed the hazer as having a faulty RS485 chip and reterminated the DMX connections on the light. The rest of the night was fairly uneventful with the only other task being to monitor the audience areas during a part of the show that uses lasers to ensure that they were operating in their defined areas.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_magldaGqU
This is one of many devices that make bold claims about reducing build up of mineral deposits in pipework. There are units with fixed magnets inside and active units like this one that have wires that wrap around pipes and claim to expose the minerals to electrical pulses to change their behaviour.
These devices have been around for many decades and usually carry advertising that shows a section of pipe with extreme scale buildup and a section of new clean pipe to show how effective they are.
Note that I can't find any proper research that indicates any of these things work. I like to keep an open mind, but feel that any sound theory behind these types of devices has been lost in the endless torrent of exuberant marketing.
It's very clever though. The unit does employ an animated LED display for the layman and actual swept frequency pulses on the output for people like us to introduce doubt and wonderment.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnahQPSKCcA
A cheap wall mounting light that can be used for lighting paths, floors or walkways without glare.
Like many modern LED lights, this unit should be considered disposable. If it fails the whole unit will have to be replaced or repaired.
Construction is quite nice, the light level is OK for a pathway at night and the PCB has some level of hackability. Either changing the LEDs for a different colour, using your own design of PCB or just changing the dropper capacitor to 100nF or 220nF for a lower intensity light.
Here's a link to the CPC page for these lights in the UK:-
https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pel01324/led-wall-light-100mm-dark-grey/dp/LA07984
They do a few different sizes.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TziZejdClw
Nothing really radical about the circuitry, but the visual effect is very neat. Especially with the LED placement.
As with most solar lights, if you really like this one, then it's worth spending a little bit of time waterproofing the interior. Whether that's using a lacquer on the PCB or some form of grease on the PCB and battery contacts to keep water away from them, it's worth doing. I wonder if a spray of mechanic's fluid film would work.
The inductor sets the LED intensity and affects the run time. Places with lower amounts of sunlight could use a higher value inductor like 220uH to 330uH. Places with high levels of sunlight could get a bit more intensity with a lower value like 56uH.
This could be a nice symbolic garden light for members of the furry fandom. Or it could be hacked to run on a USB cable and resistor for indoor use.
This light came from Temu (not a sponsor), but is available from other online sellers too:-
https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099519077930
A search for solar paw light comes up with many similar listings. I think this one cost around £4 for one.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-jkg27j6xM
This was partly a way to test my first panelised and V-cut PCB order from an online supplier. It turns out that the $2 for five panels soon adds up as you deviate from the norm.
I decided to make a small square PCB that has a micro USB connector on one side and a two pole connector on the other, with two 10 ohm resistors for current limiting. In hindsight this module could have been more useful if it had a solder pad and PCB terminal block option too. But that's why we make prototypes.
It works, and it means that I don't need to cut up any more USB leads to run strings of LEDs from USB power supplies.
If you want to get a batch of these PCBs made, here's a zipped file that contains all the Gerber files needed. Note that because the site is not currently https you may need to copy and paste the link to avoid weird security warnings.
https://www.bigclive.com/USB2LED.zip
It's an improved PCB with extra pads and strain relief holes for the direct connection of fairy light wires.
To use the files with a company like JLCPCB, go to their order/quote page and when you click on the "Add Gerber file" button, upload the full zipped file.
The PCB dimensions are 18mm by 18mm (if it doesn't fill it in automatically).
For better value select "panel by JLCPCB" and then type 5 into both the column and row options. That will give 25 snap-apart PCBs on each panel.
To allow for USB connectors with short leads, select 1mm for the PCB thickness.
When choosing a shipping option, make sure you look for the cheaper China-post or airmail options as the default will be expensive express shipping like DHL and Fedex.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7pbjI2wQXY