Make Magazine puts on Maker Faire Bay Area (in San Mateo) every year, a collection of makers, artists and technology. It's a fantastic show and tell of really inspiring projects and art!
Our Epic Fails panel from Maker Faire
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJDhtP6qb-I
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Here's our chance to ask question to my guest, April Wilkerson, and I LIVE!
Come hangout with us for an hour or so and talk about projects, workshops, WHATEVER! Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
Turning the 3d printer to change the filament is kind of a pain, so I made a way to spin it, and store filament and tools!
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GET MORE INFO ON THIS PROJECT:
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/make-spinning-3d-printer-workstation
HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
http://amzn.to/1NCVmAb - SawStop cabinet saw
http://amzn.to/1GMrfGL - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo
http://amzn.to/1HdQuwD - Grizzly G0555LANV Bandsaw
http://amzn.to/1GyGjbg - Grizzly Drill Press
http://amzn.to/1ntzLSF - Silicone spray
http://amzn.to/1ntzEGI - 12" lazy susan bearing
http://amzn.to/1WnkyhQ - Pancake compressor/ brad nailer combo
http://amzn.to/1LZGfxW - Ultimaker 2 Extended 3D printer
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I used scrap plywood for this project, so it was a combination of 1/2", 3/4" plywood and MDF.
I cut down three pieces to 14 3/4" squares, as this was a little larger than the footprint of my printer.
I cut a couple of strips for the side panels. These were a little taller than the diameter of a filament roll.
On one of these pieces, I centered a filament roll and traced the inner circle.
I made a mark at the far outside of the circle, and drew in a place for a 1/2" dowel hole.
I lined the two pieces up and drilled a 1/2" hole through both.
I sat the side pieces in place on the base and traced the edge. This shows me the safe area to drill holes. I did the same for the other square piece.
On both pieces, I drilled countersunk holes in the safe area.
The side pieces got glue on one side before being screwed to the bottom square.
I mistakenly glued the top at this point too, but don't do that. Just screw it on.
I tested the spacing with a roll of filament hanging on the dowel rod.
I cut another scrap that fit within the open side of the box, to act as a drawer front.
Two pieces were cut down to act as the sides of the drawer. Their depth was about the depth of the box minus the diameter of the filament roll.
I sat the side panel on the side of the box and pivoted it off the bottom front edge. I made a mark on the side panel where I wanted it to hit the box top.
Using a straight edge, I drew a line from my mark to the opposite top corner.
With both side pieces taped together, I cut along my line on the bandsaw.
I trimmed a piece, for the back, down to the same height as the back side of the side panels.
Since I was out of plywood scrap, I cut the drawer bottom from MDF.
I applied glue to all of the surfaces that would touch.
I folded the pieces up into place and used some brad nails to hold everything in place while the glue dried.
Using a spacer (scrap), I marked the location for two hinges on the front, bottom edge.
I predrilled holes for the hinges, and screwed them in.
I held the drawer in place, upside down, to align and screw in the hinges.
I flipped the drawer up into place. It was tighter than I wanted, but fit correctly.
I sanded down the rough edges and the sides of the drawer where it touched the outer box.
I applied some paste wax to the areas that touched which made the drawer move very smoothly!
I 3d printed a quick knob (but any knob would work fine).
Using a very small bit, I drilled a hole right in the center of the drawer front.
I ran a screw in from the back side directly into the back of the knob to hold it in place.
I sat the printer in place, centered on the top of the box, and nailed on some small strips along the side of it, keeping them very snug to the printer.
On the base panel, I measured a lazy susan bearing, and found the difference in the base's width and the bearings diameter. I split the difference and marked in that distance from each edge.
Having these four marks allowed me to easily center the bearing on the base.
The two parts of the bearing got lined up so you could see a hole all of the way through. I marked these (4) holes onto the base.
Each hole got drilled, with a countersink bit.
I centered the bearing the same way on the bottom of the cabinet, but screwed it in place using the four inner holes.
The bearing comes un-lubricated, so I sprayed in a little silicone spray and worked it into the bearing.
Laying the base on top of the bearing, I aligned the holes using a drill bit and my ice pick.
I drove in screws, through the base, into the bearing holes. These are small holes made to be grabbed by sheet metal screws.
I flipped the whole thing over and took it for a spin (pun intended).
I was able to fit four rolls of filament on the 7/16" dowel.
I added all of the 3d printing tools to the drawer and put it in place in my office.
Now I can easily spin the machine to swap filaments! Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
Me and the kids got to try out littleBits (snap together circuits) and made a bubble flute in no time! The kids LOVED IT!
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
Use the code "MAKESTUFF" for $20 off your first kit at
http://www.littlebits.com/makestuff
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
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Want to support ILTMS? There are lots of ways .. find out more at
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Want a small arcade cabinet that's easy to make? Here you go!
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
Second Channel: http://bit.ly/iltms-2
Don't pirate games! I own the Mario games shown in this video.
For more info, read the DMCA
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Millennium_Copyright_Act
Get the digital plans here:
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/product/bar-top-arcade/
My Full Size Arcade Cabinet series: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLice_sU_6Rfhw7LK-tl8A8u1XYQKeuFri
Setup 2nd player for iPac:
https://www.reddit.com/r/RetroPie/comments/3hu2uy/2_player_ipac2_setup_for_retropie/
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
TOOLS LIST:
(some are better than the versions I own)
In case you're wondering, I used a Dell 17" LCD monitor Model# E176FPf but just about any 17" 4:3 monitor should work here.
http://amzn.to/2aCJYGu - SawStop cabinet saw
http://amzn.to/2axFPsA - Skil circular saw
http://amzn.to/2axOLvq - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo
http://amzn.to/2dcJoTR - Countersink drill bits
http://amzn.to/2akFubx - Orbital Sander
http://amzn.to/2aCJP5O - Pancake compressor/nail gun combo
http://amzn.to/2axFRRs - Jigsaw
http://amzn.to/2axPah6 - Grizzly 14" Bandsaw
http://amzn.to/2aCK6pu - Grizzly Drill Press (WAAAAY overpriced (3x) on Amazon, buy from Grizzly directly.)
http://amzn.to/2axGlH9 - Kreg Rip Cut (circular saw guide)
http://amzn.to/2awLSaO - Shop Fox Hanging Air Filter
http://amzn.to/2akFN6c - 2HP Dust Collector
http://amzn.to/2aovz06 - Respirator
http://amzn.to/2axPmNA - 1 Micron bag
http://amzn.to/2aD7DGO - 11" Digital protractor
http://amzn.to/2ay8MSs - Digital Angle Gauge
http://amzn.to/2akGcWk - Classic steel ruler (cork backed)
http://amzn.to/2ay9XRX - CA Glue (medium)
http://amzn.to/2ay9T4v - CA Activator
http://amzn.to/2axPtbL - Silhouette Portrait (vinyl cutter)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110934669362?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT - Arcade buttons
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZIPPY-Classic-Competition-Style-2-4-8-way-Arcade-Game-Joystick-Arcade-MAME-JAMMA-/131974095274?hash=item1eba44e1aa - Joystick (Zippy style)
http://amzn.to/2gwLuk6 - Computer speakers
http://amzn.to/2axieIm - Raspberry Pi 3
hhttp://amzn.to/2aAxSQS - Multimeter
http://amzn.to/2anW7yq - Wire
http://amzn.to/2awMqgO - jumpers (Male to Female)
http://www.ultimarc.com/store/section.php?xSec=2 - iPac 2
http://amzn.to/2aXbVud - Wire strippers (not the ones I have, but good ones)
http://amzn.to/2gb6IQ2 - Wire connecters
https://www.t-molding.com/1-2in-orange-t-molding.html - T-Molding (1/2" x 20ft.)
http://amzn.to/2giSRc3 - Slotting cutter
http://amzn.to/2gdoYsq - Arbor
Want to support ILTMS? Get early viewing, exclusive content and more...
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/patreon
BUY A SHIRT, STICKER, DIGITAL PLANS and MORE!!
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http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff
http://facebook.com/iltms
I got the chance to check out the Form 1+ SLA 3d printer from Formlabs and R2-D2 was involved.
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
The R2-D2 model I used: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201633
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
Want to support ILTMS? There are lots of ways .. find out more at
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/support
BUY A SHIRT, STICKER OR A HANDMADE ITEM!!
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/store
FOLLOW:
http://facebook.com/iltms
http://twitter.com/iliketomakestuf
http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
I made a Rube Goldberg machine to celebrate hitting 1,000,000 subscribers!! Thank you all!!
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
Second Channel: http://bit.ly/iltms-2
Find my podcast at
http://www.makingitpodcast.com
or on YouTube at
http://youtube.com/makingitpodcast
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
Want to support ILTMS? Get exclusive content and more...
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/patreon
BUY A SHIRT, STICKER, DIGITAL PLANS and MORE!!
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/store
FOLLOW:
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http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff
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Time to finish off my Star Wars Christmas display!
Sponsored by Smart Things at https://www.smartthings.com/makestuff
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
http://amzn.to/1LZGmJS - Skil circular saw
http://amzn.to/1GMrfGL - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo
http://amzn.to/1TThjO1 - Jigsaw
Want to support ILTMS? Get early viewing, exclusive content and more...
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/patreon
BUY A SHIRT, STICKER, PENCILS and MORE!!
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/store
FOLLOW:
http://twitter.com/iliketomakestuf
http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff
http://facebook.com/iltms
I measured in 24" from the sides and the end. At this point, I hammered in a finishing nail.
I tied a string around the nail, and around a pencil. The string was around 23" long.
Holding the pencil parallel to the nail gives you a pretty reliable compass to draw a circle with.
It took me several tries, but I sketched on a Santa hat over the edge of the circle.
With several overlapping lines, it got confusing. I traced the lines that I wanted to keep with a Sharpie.
The Sharpie line was my guide for cutting the shape out with a jigsaw.
The jigsaw left a pretty rough edge, so I cleaned it up with a sander.
I covered the back of the piece with some grey exterior paint.
I also covered the edges, before covering the front up to the "hat" section.
It took several coats of red spray paint over the "hat" area to get enough coverage to partially hide the wood grain of the plywood.
After the grey dried, I sketched on some longitude and latitude lines to visualize the spherical shape.
I poured a little of the grey paint into a cup, and added some black craft paint to slightly darken it.
This new grey was my first coat of the detail painting. I painted the dish and the equator with it.
I separated a little of that paint into another cup and added more black, giving me a third grey color.
With the third color, I added another layer of "detail". Since this will be seen at quite a distance, I wasn't too worried about being a great painter.
I used some white craft paint to covered the rest of the hat.
After all of the paint dried, I sprayed over the whole thing with polyurethane to help the craft paint hold up against moisture.
I trimmed down some scrap pressure treated plywood that I had.
I added a hinge to this piece, a little back from one end.
I trimmed down another piece of scrap. I just kind of guessed at the length of this one.
I added a hinge to one end, then flipped it around and over.
I added a third hinge to this end.
I set this "leg" in place, propping up the Death Star and screwed in the bottom hinge.
I adjusted the angle of the Death Star and screwed in the last hinge.
I drilled a hole in both sides of the plywood and screwed in an eyelet.
I also added two eyelets on the back side of my house, on opposing sides of the house.
Unscrewing the hinges let's the Death Star flatten out for storage or transport. Once I had it on the roof, I reattached the top hinge.
I sat it in place, and ran a line from the eyelets to the ones on the back side of the house.
I used a Tautline Hitch knot so that I could slide the knot to tighten each line.
After I got both lines reasonably tight, I faced the Death Star where I wanted it to be the most visible.
I added a bag of sand on the base just to help it stay in place. We had quite a bit of wind and rain that evening, and it didn't budge.
I set everything up, including a spotlight on the Death Star, and it was all done! Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2