Check out how I used an Arduino, 6 servos, and a keypad to automate all of my blast gates in my dust collection system. For more details on this project, visit http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/automated-blast-gates/ Here are the electronics components that I used. http://www.newark.com/arduino/a000066/dev-brd-atmega328-arduino-uno/dp/78T1601 http://www.newark.com/arduino/t010050/module-micro-servo-tinkerkit/dp/78T5554 http://www.newark.com/apem/ac3560/switch-keypad-3x4-array-polymer/dp/51R6329 MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS http://www.iliketomakestuff.com Want to support ILTMS? There are lots of ways .. find out more at http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/support BUY A SHIRT, STICKER OR A HANDMADE ITEM!! http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/store FOLLOW: http://facebook.com/iltms http://twitter.com/iliketomakestuf http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2

Ever wanted a machine to pour your cereal for you? Well, I did and it worked, mostly. Check out how I did it! Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr Sponsored by qaloring.com MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS http://www.iliketomakestuff.com TOOLS LIST: Arduino code for this project https://github.com/iliketomakestuff/snack-machine (some are better than the versions I own) http://amzn.to/295fxfd - SawStop cabinet saw http://amzn.to/29aM7ve - Dremel http://amzn.to/29tgBXa - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo http://amzn.to/295ftMt- Pancake compressor/nail gun combo http://amzn.to/295fErc - Grizzly G0555LANV Bandsaw http://amzn.to/29aMjdZ - Shop Fox Hanging Air Filter http://amzn.to/29tggUp - 2HP Dust Collector http://amzn.to/295fNea - 1 Micron bag http://amzn.to/29fJeuV - Heat Gun http://amzn.to/2971Xqj - Hot glue gun http://amzn.to/2971ZOU - Rivet Gun http://amzn.to/292OdcD - CA Glue (medium) http://amzn.to/29aMEx9 - CA activator http://amzn.to/29aMyFX - Speed square http://amzn.to/295ghRQ - Arduino Uno http://amzn.to/295g6pr - Soldering Iron http://amzn.to/29fKjTx - Goldfish http://amzn.to/29aNj1K - Micro switch http://amzn.to/295g8O5 - Motor shield http://amzn.to/29dAunq - Stepper Motor (NEMA 17) http://amzn.to/29dzO1D - Wire strippers (not the ones I have, but good ones) Want to support ILTMS? Get early viewing, exclusive content and more... http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/patreon Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2 BUY A SHIRT, STICKER, PENCILS and MORE!! http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/store FOLLOW: http://twitter.com/iliketomakestuf http://www.twitch.tv/iliketomakestuff http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff http://facebook.com/iltms Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2

I've got 3 little boys in 1 room and their closet was a WRECK. I made some simple shelving and added rods to make it WAY more usable. Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr Get $50 off your mattress purchase at http://www.casper.com/make Material cost: $112 for the wood, sockets, rods.. another $47 in cloth bins for the cubbies What you'll need http://amzn.to/1hGMlLt - Drill/Driver combo http://amzn.to/1IZxDbg - Wood glue http://amzn.to/1JeObO3 - Table Saw http://amzn.to/1JeOdFG - Miter Saw http://amzn.to/1gjdrqU - Angle grinder http://amzn.to/1T0GBNj - Cut off wheels MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS http://www.iliketomakestuff.com Want to support ILTMS? There are lots of ways .. find out more at http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/support BUY A SHIRT, STICKER OR A HANDMADE ITEM!! http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/store FOLLOW: http://facebook.com/iltms http://twitter.com/iliketomakestuf http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff Here's where we started, a typical single rod closet. I removed the shelf to reuse it. Using a pry bar, I removed the ledger that the shelf and rod were sitting on. I patched the holes with some spackling. I first cut the shelving top, since it was the widest piece. The entire unit was made from pine 1"x12". Then I setup a stop block, clamped to my table to cut the shelves all the same width. This stop block is well behind the blade, to prevent pinching. I cut all five shelves to length. I countersunk three holes in each end of the top piece. I spread glue on the opposite side of the holes I'd added. I set the top in place up against the side panels. I used a corner clamp to hold the pieces at a 90° angle. I screwed the top to the side panels. I did the same for the other side. I cut two pieces of scrap to the same size, to act as shelf spacers. I slid these pieces up against the underside of the top panel. Then I slid the next shelf up against the bottom of the spacers. This shelf was predrilled (with countersink) and screwed in on both sides. I followed the same pattern for the rest of the shelves. I avoided glue initially so that the pieces wouldn't slide around, but once the sides were completely on, I backed out all of the screws. Then I added glue to the end of each shelf. I screwed them all back together. The pre-existing holes helped line the boards up correctly. I measured the area under the bottom shelf and cut a piece to fit that space. I used some brads to hold it in place. All of the screw holes were filled with wood putty and sanded smooth. The whole unit was sanded and painted white. I found the center of the closet and set the shelf in place. Then I marked where the shelves hit the base board. Using a cheap multitool, I cut along the line to separate the trim. I pried away the trim pieces and patched the holes with spackle. I cut four pieces of 1"x4" pine to match the depth of the closet. I painted the top, bottom and one side of them white. (The other side doesn't need paint). I found a stud, then countersunk two holes in each board. I screwed in the top hole, and used it as a pivot point to level the board. Then I secured it with the second screw. I added a screw to each end, driving them into the corner studs. I followed the same method for the other three pieces. I set my old top shelf in place. I screwed it to the top of the new shelving unit. I measured out from the wall and screwed in a pole socket. Then I matched this location on the opposite side, and added the other socket. I did the same for the other three poles. Using a cut off wheel on my grinder, I cut standard closet rods down to four sections of the correct length. These pieces dropped right into the sockets. Finally, I cut two more pieces of pine to fit the gap on each side of the shelving unit. They were painted white, set in place and leveled. From the inside of the shelving unit, I drilled and screwed into the end of the shelves. Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2

For more info on how to create your own DIY Steadicam (camera counter balance) visit http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/how-to-make-a-diy-steadicam-camera-counter-balance GoPro camera test footage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K86cQkCRUFA MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS http://www.iliketomakestuff.com Want to support ILTMS? There are lots of ways .. find out more at http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/support BUY A SHIRT, STICKER OR A HANDMADE ITEM!! http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/store FOLLOW: http://facebook.com/iltms http://twitter.com/iliketomakestuf http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff After I got our of college, I was the “grown up” among my friends (most of whom were still in school). They were living in small apartments, eating too much pizza, going to the beach a 3 am. I was married, had a house… and a workshop. The fact that I loved to make things worked really well with the fact that a bunch of my art student friends didn’t have access to the tools and space that they wanted to accomplish their art. One of my really good friends (the extremely talented Anthony Dodero) was shooting some film work and wanted a couple of simple jigs to get improve the shots. One of them involved cantilevering a camera out a car window (crazy, dangerous, etc) but the other was pretty easy to figure out.. a really simple camera counter balance. Steadicam is a brand name, but the word has become synonymous with a unit to help stabilize hand held camera shots. The real Steadicam units are often MUCH larger and are mounted to a chest harness to help distribute the weight of the rig to your torso. Since we were looking for something on a college student budget, we went with steel pipe from a big box store. Check out this really simple build below, and if you’ve got suggestions for add-ons/improvements please leave them in the comments! Here’s what you’ll need: (purchasing via these affiliate links supports ILTMS) 3 lengths of 3/4″ steel pipe 3/4″ steel pipe T fitting 1/4-20 x 1 ” screw and two 1/4-20 nuts 2 3/4″ steep pipe caps 1 3/4″ steel pipe flange 1″ PVC pipe (about 6″ in length) Duct tape Flat black spray paint I started with some 3/4″ steel pipe, fittings, PVC and some bolts & nuts. It’s really simple, I screw the pieces together, except for the top cap. I drilled a hole through the top cap, using a clamp to stabilize it. I pushed a screw up through it and tightened on a nut. A second nut was added, but not tightened. Then the cap was added to the assembly. This is essentially finished, but there’s a lot of friction when you hold the pipe directly. I cut a piece of 1″ PVC pipe a little longer than my fist. I cut it in half on the bandsaw. Then I cut it into quarters. Only three of the four are needed. A sanding block removes the burrs very quickly. I needed to remove the angle from the cut edge using a belt sander. This is what they looked like afterward. All three pieces needed this. The pieces then fit perfectly around the steel pipe. I laid out a bed of duct tape then laid the PVC pieces in place, outer edge to outer edge. Using a sharp knife, I trimmed off the tape from the top and bottom. Then I trimmed off the tape from one side. The PVC wrapped around nicely, and the remaining tape folded over to make it into a sleeve. Here you can see why the corners needed to be removed. After removing the sleeve and the screw/nuts, I sprayed the whole thing black. I screwed the flange into a scrap of wood to use as a clamping base. In this case, I clamped a brick to counter weight the camera, but this can be swapped out with whatever weight item needed. Last I screwed on the camera, and tightened the nut up to it snuggly. I have three side by side tests in the video above! Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2