Replacing Your Power Supply and Fixing Wiring - 3D Printer Repair
Wiring a proper power supply for a 3D printer is important. Here's how to replace a power supply and properly connect wiring.
This should be pretty cross-applicable to any 3D printer. If your printer doesn't use an external switching supply it's likely using one of these internal industrial component supplies.
And the wiring on this unit was horrendous. I went ahead and crimped on terminal ends to all of the wires after stripping off solder (?).
That's one problem down. Next up is to clean off that horrible sticky-tape junk on the print bed and get a PEI spring-steel sheet installed. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vkla34dd_Hk
My Ryobi P737 inflator and tire pump was getting hot and not moving any air. So I've decided to tear it apart, see if anything's broken, and check why it started failing quicker than I expected.
I've included a teardown of the pump, a look inside to see what makes it chooch, and a DIY replacement fan that you can 3D print if your motor has also torn it's cooling fan to bits.
Thingiverse Link to STL: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4353733
GitHub: https://github.com/Inhibit/3D_Designs/tree/master/Ryobi_P737_Replacement_Fan
All of this is equally applicable to any of the 12v DC tire inflator air pumps. The design for the valves won't be radically different on any of them.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MY_VDyjl8Q8
My son startled the ceramic heater. Being a shy electrical device it fell and broke it's base plate. I'm designing a new part by hand, typing the dimensions up in OpenSCAD, slicing it in Slic3r, then kicking off a replacement on the Prusa i3 Mk3. Let's see if it actually works.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEW9TP6eW8w
I may be confusing the steel motor housing with fingernails regarding the soft and conditioned. The marketing's unclear.
But I needed something at-hand to make a water resistant mark on the surface of my pump motor. Normally it'd be a grease pen or a bit of paint.
I've had this UV nail polish set sitting around and I've been curious how well a layer would stay on an unprepared surface. It came un-announced in the mail from Amazon one day with no indication of where it was from and no way to return it.
So we're seeing if it will usably bond to the surface of a metal motor. In this case that's a bog-standard steel.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkSR7F5X-N8
Center drilling titanium bolts with high speed steel drill bits!
It does go horribly wrong. But I did succeed in drilling the bolt and the bits worked great!
Once I've adjusted the drill press platform square to the drill chuck (video of that to follow) I'll revisit drilling titanium again. Probably with the same jobber bit to live dangerously.
The background music is "Maple Leaf Rag" by Scott Joplin
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4hlm_tzaN8
UV Resin for small batch prototyping in the home shop has come down in price dramatically. Now that it's an affordable option for making components I'm working on the Wanhao D7 printer again.
Thingiverse Page: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4212421
Github Repository: https://github.com/Inhibit/3D_Designs/tree/master/UV_Resin_Curing_Station
PCBurn Article: https://pcburn.com/diy-uv-resin-curing-station---make-your-own-uv-resin-curer/
Along with the printer there are some other necessities. You need rubbing alcohol to clean the prints, plastic containers, and something to complete the UV curing process.
And the curing process is what I'm addressing today. Instead of dropping hundreds of dollars on a commercial curing station for my 300$ printer I've decided to re-use an old nail curing station picked up second-hand. We're sacrificing this Sensationail Pro 3060 curing station for the cause.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qn-Az0mDHFQ
The Pelouze scale I use for quick weights has stopped zeroing out. Something appears to be sticking in it's rack and pinion assembly. So I'm pulling it's tabs and taking a look inside!
Article: https://pcburn.com/inside-an-antique-pelouze-scale/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAJFljLenKA
I dive into a look at the cheapest PETG filament available on Amazon, at the time of purchase just 12.83 shipped! How will the least expensive filament with free shipping your money can buy stack up?
If you've ever wondered if you'd get your money's worth, or if these low-cost filaments are any good, take a look at another one with me.
Most people whom I talk to about 3D printing seem to have a loose preference for a particular filament. Most of the cheap filaments we use seem to be of similar quality and tend to run through the 3D prints okay if not perfectly.
With the exception of the now defunct MakerGeeks PETG filament I haven't seen a truly awful roll come across my desk yet. And fingers crossed, the cheapest roll of PETG I could find on Amazon won't be the first!
All of the filaments I feature on these "cheapest" videos are purchased by me at retail for use in my home shop. They weren't received free, reimbursed in any way, and I don't get paid by anyone to do this.
If you like the content please subscribe and let me know what you'd like to see in the comments!
Accompanying article at https://pcburn.com/petg-filament-is-the-cheapest-on-amazon-any-good/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTQGLxF8Wm8
Mini Arcade machines by My Arcade were popular in 2017. Since then they've become a budget buy on EBay having worn out their shiny new thing allure.
When I had the chance to pick up one for a teardown I decided to see if this would make a good Arduino project box, parts pull for other projects, or even a decent game in it's own right for the arcade lover.
Internally it has a LCD that might be re-usable, a circuit board with some interesting breakouts, and a few daughter boards which might suite your next project well.
And the arcade cabinet case of course. With the joystick pad of the cabinet being re-usable it should be possible to put a raspberry pi or other micro computer in there to re-use the cabinet as a general purpose mini arcade.
I've also written a companion article on PCBurn with additional internal pictures here: https://pcburn.com/data-east-karate-champ-my-arcade-teardown/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z56s-7UhYNo
Happy New Year! And can we remove a sticky rubber coating? Probably. Find out how I fared with the cleaners sitting nearest my bench.
This also includes a quick teardown of a generic PowerA 051082 controller.
If I run across another one of these I'll follow up with a run through the ultrasonic cleaner in a few different chemical baths.
And if you're curious about that serial two wire chip the specification sheet is available here: https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/doc0180.pdf
00:00 Happy New Year!
01:20 PowerA Controller 051082 Teardown
02:16 PowerA Controller 051082 Screw Layout
02:42 Interesting Circuit Board Components
04:20 Cleaning off Sticky Rubber with Alcohol
05:50 Cleaning off Sticky Rubber with Ammonium Chloride
06:27 Cleaning off Sticky Rubber with Ammonia Free Window Cleaner
07:45 Sticky Rubber Breaking Down Demonstration
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JStZho49X3I