Ever wanted a machine to pour your cereal for you? Well, I did and it worked, mostly. Check out how I did it! Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
I made a Rube Goldberg machine to celebrate hitting 1,000,000 subscribers!! Thank you all!!
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Second Channel: http://bit.ly/iltms-2
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Check out how I made a fully custom game console from plywood, duct tape and a plastic dinosaur!
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TOOLS LIST:
(some are better than the versions I own)
http://azon.ly/mEg3uj - Plastic dinosaurs
http://azon.ly/pHhf99 - Duct tape
http://azon.ly/jMbhd2 - Taco sauce
http://azon.ly/ws5B1K - Hot dog costume for dogs
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I've got 3 little boys in 1 room and their closet was a WRECK. I made some simple shelving and added rods to make it WAY more usable.
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Get $50 off your mattress purchase at http://www.casper.com/make
Material cost: $112 for the wood, sockets, rods.. another $47 in cloth bins for the cubbies
What you'll need
http://amzn.to/1hGMlLt - Drill/Driver combo
http://amzn.to/1IZxDbg - Wood glue
http://amzn.to/1JeObO3 - Table Saw
http://amzn.to/1JeOdFG - Miter Saw
http://amzn.to/1gjdrqU - Angle grinder
http://amzn.to/1T0GBNj - Cut off wheels
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Here's where we started, a typical single rod closet.
I removed the shelf to reuse it.
Using a pry bar, I removed the ledger that the shelf and rod were sitting on. I patched the holes with some spackling.
I first cut the shelving top, since it was the widest piece. The entire unit was made from pine 1"x12".
Then I setup a stop block, clamped to my table to cut the shelves all the same width.
This stop block is well behind the blade, to prevent pinching.
I cut all five shelves to length.
I countersunk three holes in each end of the top piece.
I spread glue on the opposite side of the holes I'd added.
I set the top in place up against the side panels.
I used a corner clamp to hold the pieces at a 90° angle.
I screwed the top to the side panels.
I did the same for the other side.
I cut two pieces of scrap to the same size, to act as shelf spacers.
I slid these pieces up against the underside of the top panel.
Then I slid the next shelf up against the bottom of the spacers.
This shelf was predrilled (with countersink) and screwed in on both sides.
I followed the same pattern for the rest of the shelves.
I avoided glue initially so that the pieces wouldn't slide around, but once the sides were completely on, I backed out all of the screws.
Then I added glue to the end of each shelf.
I screwed them all back together. The pre-existing holes helped line the boards up correctly.
I measured the area under the bottom shelf and cut a piece to fit that space.
I used some brads to hold it in place.
All of the screw holes were filled with wood putty and sanded smooth.
The whole unit was sanded and painted white.
I found the center of the closet and set the shelf in place.
Then I marked where the shelves hit the base board.
Using a cheap multitool, I cut along the line to separate the trim.
I pried away the trim pieces and patched the holes with spackle.
I cut four pieces of 1"x4" pine to match the depth of the closet.
I painted the top, bottom and one side of them white. (The other side doesn't need paint).
I found a stud, then countersunk two holes in each board.
I screwed in the top hole, and used it as a pivot point to level the board.
Then I secured it with the second screw.
I added a screw to each end, driving them into the corner studs.
I followed the same method for the other three pieces.
I set my old top shelf in place.
I screwed it to the top of the new shelving unit.
I measured out from the wall and screwed in a pole socket.
Then I matched this location on the opposite side, and added the other socket. I did the same for the other three poles.
Using a cut off wheel on my grinder, I cut standard closet rods down to four sections of the correct length.
These pieces dropped right into the sockets.
Finally, I cut two more pieces of pine to fit the gap on each side of the shelving unit.
They were painted white, set in place and leveled.
From the inside of the shelving unit, I drilled and screwed into the end of the shelves. Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
What to expect in 2016, from I Like To Make Stuff
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A friend wanted some open shelving in her kitchen, so I bought some cheap stair treads and turned them into simple, cheap shelves!
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CHECK OUT EBATES!
http://www.ebates.com/rf.do?referrerid=ehEaMzIc09RJ7uc1xxHRAQ%3D%3D&eeid=26471
Get $10 Gift Card from Target/Walmart/Macy's/Kohl's or $10 Ebates Cash after your first $25 purchase
Here are some links to the stores I mentioned...
Home and Garden category:
http://www.ebates.com/sem2014/landing_page/home-garden_coupons.htm?referrerid=ehEaMzIc09RJ7uc1xxHRAQ%3D%3D&eeid=26471
Home Depot:
http://www.ebates.com/coupons/home-depot/index.htm?referrerid=ehEaMzIc09RJ7uc1xxHRAQ%3D%3D&eeid=26471
Lowe’s:
http://www.ebates.com/coupons/lowes/index.htm?referrerid=ehEaMzIc09RJ7uc1xxHRAQ%3D%3D&eeid=26471
Target:
http://www.ebates.com/coupons/target/index.htm?referrerid=ehEaMzIc09RJ7uc1xxHRAQ%3D%3D&eeid=26471
Walmart:
http://www.ebates.com/coupons/walmart/index.htm?referrerid=ehEaMzIc09RJ7uc1xxHRAQ%3D%3D&eeid=26471
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HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
Pine stair treads
http://amzn.to/1R7HUoy - Wood glue
http://amzn.to/1R7HPRD - Table Saw
http://amzn.to/1R7HQVK - Miter Saw
http://amzn.to/1jt6ftY - Drill/driver
http://amzn.to/1R7HVsz - Level
http://amzn.to/1G9Zurk - Bandsaw
http://amzn.to/1VOOCGG - Jigsaw
http://amzn.to/1VOOEyg - Wall anchors
http://amzn.to/1jt6IMN - Rubber mallet
http://amzn.to/1VOOIOx - 7" Speed square
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To get a thickness of 1", I used pine stair treads, but trimmed off the rounded edge.
I cut them to length, using the off cuts for the brackets.
I drew out a 9" square and a notch for the ledger.
From the opposite corner, I used a compass to draw an arch.
I cut the brace out on the bandsaw, but a jigsaw would work as well.
I cut out the area for the ledger, 3/4" x 2".
I used the first brace as a template to trace the others.
Then I made a LOT more of them.
I used the edge of the belt sander to smooth out my bandsaw cuts.
Also, I flattened out the ends of the brace.
For the corner shelves, I lined up two panels and made three marks across the joint.
Using a biscuit joiner, I cut a biscuit slot on both pieces, at each one of the marks.
Both surfaces and all six slots got plenty of glue, and one panel got three biscuits.
I clamped the panels together from top and bottom to stock flexing and bowing.
After the joints were dry, I sanded the glue squeeze out and all edges.
I set the brackets in place, on the TOP side of the shelves, squared them to the edge and traced them.
This area is so I know the safe area to drill holes down from the top.
I drilled two holes for each brace.
The holes were countersunk to allow the screw heads to be flush to the top.
I added glue to each brace and held it perpendicular to the shelf.
I connected the braces with screws, from the top side.
The corner shelves worked the same way, but took a lot longer.
All of the holes, and voids were filled with wood filler.
Then all of the filler was sanded away and the shelves sanded smooth.
I cut some scrap 3/4" pine into strips, to act as the ledgers.
The strips were all chopped to length on the miter saw.
Everything was primed and painted with white enamel paint.
I marked in 1" (the thickness of the braces) from each end of the ledgers.
I predrilled a hole in each one. This hole will be covered by the brace.
Every brace has a hole behind it, and the straight shelves have a center hole as well.
I held the ledgers in place, leveled them and drilled through the holes to transfer the locations to the wall.
I opened up each hole with a larger drill bit, to fit the anchors I'd purchased.
The anchors were knocked into the holes. Each of these anchors can support 75lb. Get the correct anchors for your application.
I drove screws, through the ledger, into the anchors, and it was really solid.
I did the same for the other two ledgers, making sure everything stayed level throughout.
The shelves fit tightly onto the ledgers. I used a rubber mallet to knock them into place.
I countersunk a hole, through the shelves, into their ledger, followed by a long screw.
I predrilled, countersunk and screwed the bottom edge of each brace to the wall for stability.
Finally, there was a LOT of hole filling, patching, and touch up painting to do.
Since the walls are wavy (old house) I filled gaps with caulking.
They turned out really well, and best of all, my friend really likes them! Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
My response to the challenge from Tyler G and Peter Brown.
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